Location– Build on a high & dry location that gets partial shade and partial sun.

Size– Allow 4-5 square feet of floor space per bird.

Materials– Use sturdy materials that provide predator protection, weather protection, and insulation. Wood is the ideal chicken coop building material. Thick walls or insulation helps with cold winters.

Layout– Ideally follow these layout guidelines:

• south facing side: chicken door that leads to the enclosure 
• east & west facing walls: windows
• include a full size door for easy access
• avoid having shelves, ledges, or rafters that chickens would like to roost on
• keep ease of cleaning in mind
• avoid having dark corners and spaces in the coop
• avoid putting windows above or across from the roosts to prevent drafts

Roofing– The coop roof should be secure and weather proof. I use tin for my coop roofs.

Flooring– The coop floor should be solid, sturdy, and level. It helps to put a water resistant layer over the coop floor as well before you lay down litter.

You should have two doors in your chicken coop. 

One door should be the chicken door where they can entire and exit the coop. This door should be big enough for your largest chicken to fit through but does not need to be a full size door. It should be able to be securely latched in the evening and should have a ramp leading down to the ground. Ideally, an automatic chicken door is a great investment. They are predator proof and don’t need to be manually opened and closed. 

A full-size door should also be included in your coop design. It allows you easy access to the inside of your coop and makes cleaning the coop a lot easier.

All doors should be predator proof and latch securely. 

The chicken coop should have plenty of windows that allow natural light into the coop.

The windows should be predator proof with screening and hardwire. You can also use traditional windows or create windows that can be opened and securely closed as needed. 

Ideally the windows should be positioned on the east and west sides of the coop to allow for optimal lighting.

Curtains and drapes can help insulate the windows during the winter. 

Nesting Boxes– Allow 1 nesting box for every 3-4 hens. They should be positioned lower than the roosts to discourage sleeping in the nesting boxes and should have a ramp or ledge for the hens to easily access them. Nesting box curtains can be added to make them more appealing for the hens.

Roosts– Allow 8-12 inches of roosting space per bird. Roosts can be ladder style or run parallel to the wall. For heavier chicken breeds, the roosts should be no more than 2-3 feet off the ground. Make sure the roosts are sanded down and smooth but not slippery and round. 

Droppings Board– A droppings board below the roosts is a great manure management tool. It allows you to easily clean up the nightly droppings every morning. Boards, slings, and trays can all be used for managing nightly droppings. Dropping boards should extend 6-7 inches beyond the roosts on either side and should be installed at least 4-5 inches below the roosts. 

Feeders– Feeders can be store-bought or homemade. Hanging feeders are the best for managing feed waste and preventing rodents from indulging. Ensure there is plenty of feeder space for all your birds to eat at once. The feeder should hold enough to last the flock for at least 2 days. For large flocks, multiple feeders may be needed. 

Feeders can be placed within the coop or in a predator-proof enclosure. Outdoor feeders should be brought in every night. 

Waters– Water systems can be store-bought or homemade. The water system should be easy to clean and hold enough water to last your flock at least 2 days. Ensure there is plenty of drinking space for all your chickens to get a drink. 

Plastic water founts and poultry water nipples work well for water systems.

The coop should have good ventilation. Ventilation allows for air flow and air exchange, which can help prevent harmful ammonia fumes from building up.

Good ventilation is also essential during the winter months for preventing moisture build up which can cause frostbite. 

Good ventilation can be achieved by having windows that can be opened and closed and by having air vents near the roof-line of the coop.

When installing ventilation systems, make sure the coop doesn’t get drafty. Drafts are a one way air flow that does not exchange air and can allow cold air to seep into the coop during the winter.

Having electricity out at the coop is not essential, but it is something that I highly recommend your coop have. 

Electricity is helpful for keeping water unfrozen during the winter, supplying light to the coop, and makes cleaning the coop easier. 

All electrical outlets and plugs should be properly installed and outlets should be plugged when they are not in use. Make sure the outlets are out of the way so that chickens can’t peck at, pull, or trip over any cords. 

Chicken Coop Litter Options:

• sand- replace every 2-3 years
• straw- replace every 4-6 months
• large flake wood shavings- replace every 3-4 months 

Cold Climate Litter– straw or sand

Warm Climate Litter– sand or wood shavings

Temperate Climate Litter– sand or wood shavings 

Winter Litter– straw or deep litter 

Nesting Box Litter– sand, straw, wood shavings, fake grass nesting box mats